HAIRCUT GUIDE
Managing Thick Hair That Sticks Out at the Sides: Haircuts for Men
Explore these hairstyle portfolio references. Open a photo to view the style and available contact options.
Solving the "Porcupine" Effect
For many men with thick, coarse, and highly straight hair, the sides of the head can be a major source of styling frustration. Because the hair follicles can dictate an outward, 90-degree growth pattern, hair often sticks out horizontally as soon as it reaches half an inch in length. While it's important to remember that not all Asian men have the same hair texture—many have natural waves, fine strands, or curls—those dealing with this specific stubborn growth have three primary mechanical solutions. You can either cut the sides shorter than the length required to stick out, utilize a disconnected top to weigh the sides down, or grow the hair long enough for gravity to take over.
The Fade and Taper: Removing the Problem Length
The most direct way to stop hair from sticking out is to remove the length entirely. High fades, mid fades, and tight tapers take the hair down to the skin or very close to it. By clipping the sides tightly, the hair simply isn't long enough to stand out horizontally. This creates a clean, streamlined silhouette that contrasts nicely with a textured crop or slicked-back top. The main tradeoff with this approach is maintenance. Because coarse hair grows quickly and noticeably, the awkward "sticking out" phase can return in just a couple of weeks, meaning you will likely need frequent barber visits to maintain the sharp look.
The Two-Block Cut: Using Disconnection for Coverage
The "two-block" haircut has become a staple for managing thick, unruly sides without having to commit to a skin fade. This technique involves disconnecting the top section of the hair from the sides and back. The lower block is clipped short enough to prevent it from puffing outward, while the upper block is left long and heavy. The weight of the longer top section acts like an umbrella, draping over the clipped sides and forcing the overall silhouette to lay flat. This style is highly versatile, allowing for middle parts, textured fringe, or sweeping back styles, all while keeping the stubborn sides hidden under the canopy of longer hair.
Gravity and Down Perms: Lengthening the Sides
If you prefer a softer, medium-length look and want to avoid clippers altogether, your best option is to grow the sides out past their awkward phase. Once coarse hair gains an extra inch or two of length, the natural weight of the hair allows gravity to pull it downward. To assist this process, many salons offer a "down perm." Unlike traditional perms that add curl, a down perm is a targeted chemical service that relaxes the roots on the sides and back, forcing stubborn hairs to lay flat against the scalp. While highly effective for certain hair types, down perms involve chemical processing, so a thorough consultation with a stylist is necessary to determine if your hair is a suitable candidate.
Compare portfolio photos and discuss your goals with a stylist.
Explore hairstyles